What the karat number means
Pure gold is 24 karat. It is too soft for jewelry that is worn every day, so it is mixed with other metals. The karat number says how many parts in 24 are gold.
| Karat | Pure gold | Stamp |
|---|---|---|
| 24k | 99.9 percent | 999 |
| 22k | 91.6 percent | 916 |
| 18k | 75 percent | 750 |
| 14k | 58.3 percent | 585 |
| 9k | 37.5 percent | 375 |
Karat with a k measures gold. Carat with a c measures the weight of a diamond. They are different things.
Where the three colours come from
The colour of gold comes from the metals it is mixed with. All three colours of 18k gold hold the same 75 percent of pure gold.
- Yellow gold is gold with silver and copper. It is the closest to the colour of pure gold.
- White gold is gold with white metals such as palladium, silver or nickel. By itself it is a warm grey white, so it is usually plated with rhodium to make it bright. The plating wears with time and can be renewed.
- Rose gold is gold with a larger share of copper. The more copper, the redder the gold. It needs no plating.
18k or 14k
18k gold holds more gold. Its colour is richer, it is heavier in the hand, and it is the standard for fine jewelry in much of Europe and the Middle East.
14k gold holds less gold and more of the harder metals, so it resists scratches a little better and costs less. It is the most common choice in the United States.
ART makes its pieces in 18k gold, in white, yellow or rose.
Gold or platinum
Platinum is white by nature, so it is never plated. It is denser than gold, and in jewelry it is usually 95 percent pure, stamped 950. With wear it takes on a soft grey finish instead of losing metal.
White gold gives the same bright white look when it is new. It is lighter on the finger, and it needs replating from time to time.
Which colour suits a diamond
- White gold makes a colourless diamond look its whitest.
- Yellow and rose gold lend a diamond a little warmth. That makes them forgiving: a diamond one or two colour grades lower looks the same once it is set. See the four Cs.
- Both together. Many rings pair a yellow or rose band with white claws, to keep the stone white above a warm band.
Skin matters less than people expect. Choose the colour you already wear, since a ring is seen beside the rest of your jewelry.
Sensitive skin, and care
Some white gold contains nickel, and nickel irritates some skin. If yours reacts to it, say so when you enquire.
Gold of any colour picks up fine scratches with wear, and a jeweler can polish them out. The care guide covers cleaning and storing.
