The parts of a ring
A few words make the rest easier to follow.
- The head is the part that holds the centre stone.
- Claws, also called prongs, are the small arms of metal that grip the stone. The two words mean the same thing.
- The shoulders are the two sides of the band where it rises to meet the head.
- The shank is the band itself, the part that circles the finger.
- The gallery is the space under the stone, seen from the side.
The main settings
Solitaire
One diamond, held by claws, on a plain or lightly set band. Four claws show more of the stone and give it a slightly squarer outline. Six claws hold it more securely and keep a round stone looking round. No setting lets in more light.
Bezel
A rim of metal wraps the whole edge of the diamond. It is the most secure setting and the least likely to catch on anything. It covers the edge of the stone, so a little less light enters from the side.
Halo
A circle of small diamonds surrounds the centre stone. It makes the centre look larger and adds brightness around it. There are more small stones to look after.
Pavé
Small diamonds are set close together along the band, each held by tiny beads of metal, so the surface looks paved with light. It is the brightest band. The small stones can work loose over the years, and a pavé band is harder to resize.
Three stone
A centre diamond with a smaller one on either side. It covers more of the finger than a solitaire of the same centre weight. The three stones are often read as past, present and future.
Cathedral
The shoulders rise in two arches to meet the head, like the vault of a church. The stone sits higher and the ring has a graceful profile.
Channel
Diamonds sit side by side in a groove cut into the band, held by its two walls instead of by claws. The surface is smooth and the stones are well protected, which is why it is common in wedding bands.
The settings compared
| Setting | How well it protects the stone | How much light reaches it | Upkeep |
|---|---|---|---|
| Solitaire, four claws | Good | Most | Have the claws checked once a year |
| Solitaire, six claws | Very good | Most | Have the claws checked once a year |
| Bezel | Best | Slightly less | Least |
| Halo | Very good | High | More small stones to check |
| Three stone | Very good | High | Three settings to check |
| Pavé band | Good | High | Small stones can loosen |
Choosing for the life it will live
- For busy hands, or for work in gloves, choose a bezel or a low claw setting. Nothing stands up to catch.
- For the most sparkle, choose claws. They leave the stone open to light.
- To make a stone look larger, choose a halo.
- For a shape with points, such as a pear, a marquise or a princess cut, make sure each point sits in a claw. A point is where a diamond is most easily chipped.
- If a wedding band will sit beside it, ask how high the head stands, so the two rings can lie flush.
The colour of the metal around the stone matters too. White claws keep a diamond looking white. Yellow or rose gold lends it a little warmth. See gold colours and karats.
Every ART engagement ring is made to order. The stone and the colour of the gold can be changed on any design, and a change of setting becomes a commission. See the engagement rings.
